*THAI TALE* - (non-moto story) - Northern Territory Haze. "Burning Season". SLASH & BURN farming.

It is our responsibility as humans to care for nature and the countryside. DO NOT write slash and burn farming off as not your business even if Thailand is not your birth country. Whether a Thai national or not, this horrific technique should not be taken lightly or written off as tradition. Do not underestimate or take lightly the damage this technique causes. It not only destroys nature, it creates toxic fumes. Plastic and rubbish also gets burned at this time.
Make no excuses, this practice MUST end!

When hot season kicks in, residents in the north of Thailand prepare for the dreaded "slash and burn";a farming technique which is carried out throughout northern regions, including Burma/Myanmar and Laos. The season can begin as early as November and end as late as May, with the worst periods usually being late February and March.

The farming technique involves huge sections of forestry being set on fire, and is mainly about harvesting some particularly prized (and costly) mushrooms. These mushrooms, called hed thob, grow only during this season, and are sought after for their earthy flavour. The mushrooms are harvested and sold at extremely high prices, making them a lucrative crop for farmers. ..and thus, for this reason it is very hard to change a practice which brings in so much cash. Ultimately money is king. Plus, burning also makes it easier to hunt wildlife for food, when their natural habitat is destroyed.

It's hard to believe given that every year the same thing happens, that there are laws in place which make the practice of burning illegal. However, it is either non enforceable or no one wishes to enforce. The rural farmers that carry out the practice stand to make most of their annual living from this crop, so it is far too important a technique for them to give up readily. What is the solution? I have no idea sadly, but given that the northern regions all suffer from terrible clawing smog and dangerous PM and AQI levels, something needs to change. (You can view levels via this official site:http://aqicn.org/city/chiang-mai/).

Thankfully there has has been rising recognition about the damage the burning is doing, not only to the flora and fauna, but to people's health. Campaign's have been taking place to promote awareness and show upset over the lack of enforcement, such as the "Bye Bye Smog" rally. Hopefully there is a sea of change taking place over this, even if the tide is still far out..

For ten years now I have been witnessing the devastation that burning season causes.  Each year I tell myself that the next year I will not remain in Chiang Mai or the north, but for some reason I end up staying and waiting it out. Many residents who can escape the region at this time, do. The weather at this time is often around 40c / 104f region, so teamed with the poor AQI the quality of life in the northern regions become poor.

 This year (2016) has been a particularly lengthy burning season. 

It is already May and yet a devastating vision met us all in Chiang Mai when we saw our beautiful mountain ablaze. 

This short video was from today and this evening:

It is truly frightening and depressing to see.

*UPDATE* See end of post for an update on the devastation this fire caused..

Over the years I have seen a lot of burning. Here are some images I have captured from previous years:

Another burning video I recorded in 2013, shot in Pai, Thailand.

 

 

 

 

*UPDATE*

These are some of the images we are faced with in the aftermath of the fire last night...

Take a moment to look at the images and really digest what these poor creatures, and many more like them, suffered last night. This is the same suffering that animals all over the northern region endure each year from these fires. Frightened out of their minds and burnt alive. Their charred remains a sad image of the damage these selfish practices cause.

 I confess I had to reign in some deep feelings of anger and upset upon seeing these images. Something about seeing the charred remains of innocent creatures brings home the horrific devastation these farming practices cause. On my personal Facebook account I expressed some strong words regarding the inhumane selfish individuals who carry out these fires, but for the sake of diplomacy i will refrain from repeating them on here. My only hope is that the death of these poor victims will cause enough outrage to finally make some difference in enforcing the laws regarding preventing the burning practices. In truth I do not hold my breath on anything changing though. This compounds the sorrow I have in my heart because not only do we have the death of nature on our hands, we have the knowledge that their death is likely all in vain, for the practice will continue.

..at this current time I am not aware of any groups aiming to combat the burning, except for the Bye Bye Smog group (click here for Facebook page for Bye Bye Smog group). If I hear of any campaigns or other groups involved I will post an update. For now, you can show your support by clicking LIKE on the Bye Bye Smog Facebook group.

(I have since found out the photos of the carcases are from a previous fire, however the impact will have been the same)

*MOTO TALE* - "Publish a picture that makes me feel proud to be a Biker..."

A friend recently nominated me to post a photo(s) that makes me feel proud to be a Biker.
So be aware that this blog post is a rather indulgent one. Read on only if you can forgive me for being so self-focused..!
Turned out to be not as easy a decision as I thought it would be.

How can one sum up that feeling succinctly in photo form...?
I mulled it over for a while to work out what photo(s) would best illustrate that feeling for me....

So, initially I thought maybe the adventures I have enjoyed on a bike could sum it up..because that's a huge part of what I love about riding.

..but no, not quite right....

 ..then I thought, maybe it could be the fantastic events I have been lucky to attend...

..but no again.











<--Err, sorry ..that's a little random. Its just that all this "no again" stuff suddenly had me thinking of the Hong Kong Phooey cartoon I watched as a kid. If you have no idea what I'm talking about then you are either too young or too old or not from a country where this was shown, and I am not going to help you out by giving my age away :p


..ok, back to "the - plot - thickens" style deduction...

So I thought maybe its the great motorcycling friends I have made over time, who have been great fun to hang out with and who have been helpful to me.

but nope..as much as I love my friends, that isn't quite cutting the mustard for me either.

Then i figured what about that time i felt like Ms Hot-Chick-On-A-Bike? haha...

..but although I had a lot of fun that day, the personal sum of my motorcycling worth isn't measured on whether I look hot or not on a bike.




Lastly I was thinking maybe its the progression from automatic scooter to manual bike.. which has been pretty much self taught aside from initial guidance...and that was a close definite for me.

But nope nope nope..
.....and then it hit me like a lightning bolt. I also had the perfect photo to illustrate it...

What makes me feel proud to be a biker is the resilience to keep going, to get back up on the saddle even after falling. The unbelievable urge and desire to be on that bike NO MATTER WHAT. The fact that most bikers I know, myself included, have had accidents or bike related injuries, yet where possible they dust themselves off and get right back on. In fact, most will still be dreaming about getting back on their bikes even when trussed up in a hospital bed with pins coming out of limbs. This resilience makes me proud to be a biker.

The photos I have chosen to sum this up, is the photos illustrating my accident and then the photo of finally having the nerve to retrace that accident..and complete it. 
I had ridden many routes over the four years since my accident, but just couldnt bring myself to retrace the actual accident route. So..that day was an achievement for me, and a day when i finally put the past to bed.

Of course, I do hope to never have another accident again, at least not anything severe. ..and I wish the same for my fellow riders.

Safe travels friends!


(If interested to read about my accident and the retracing. Here are the links:
Original accident
Accident trip retraced )

I would also love to know what photo makes you feel proud to be a Biker, if you care to share! :D

*MOTO TRIP* *DAY RIDE* **LAYMAN'S GUIDE!** The 1095 Pai Road - A succinct slice of Pai ~!

LAYMAN'S GUIDE series.  No waffle. Non wax-lyrical. Straightforward. 

 THE 1095 ROUTE TO 

PAI 

Whether on a scooter or a bigger bike, here is the Zed CM layman's guide to the 1095 route to Pai

ROUTE: From Chiang Mai city, head for route 107 (see map above - also note my tip about taking route 121 initially). This road is a busy dusty road, get through it best you can, nothing really to enjoy here. When you hit the junction with the 1095 left turn towards Pai, i recommend that you DO NOT turn left. Instead, head straight on for approximately 700 meters to the Shell Garage and fill up.

(There are small village petrol pumps dotted along the way but if you fill up at this garage, you shouldn't need to fill up along the way. Scooters included). If you have a bigger bike with a higher tank capacity, you won't need to worry about filling up here..but its a good fuel stop in any case). Once filled, make a U-Turn and head on to the 1095 and into the hills towards Pai.


The 1095 is a twisty fun road, but ride within your capabilities. For fast riders this road will only take a couple of hours..but can take as much as five for inexperienced riders. Add to that possible stops too. So keep in mind it could be a potentially long ride if you are on a small bike and are inexperienced. 

My personal top stop-off points: 

32 Coffee Hill: This is my staple stop off point, which is around half way to Pai. A good place for a drink, plus they have nice toilet facilities if you need to freshen up. 32 Coffee Hill is also within a restaurant and resort complex, so if you find yourself hungry or very tired, it is worth knowing these facilities are available too. When on route to Pai or just enjoying the road, this is usually my only stop off point. But if you have time, the next two destinations are worth visiting...

Mork Fa Waterfall. (The waterfall is BEFORE 32 Coffee Hill, so keep that in mind). I love this waterfall, but tends to get busy. It also has an interesting twisty road area to explore, if that's your thing. The waterfall itself is 60 meters high, very pretty and a great place to cool down. National park fees apply.  
8am - 6pm. Entry fee: 100 baht adult (20 baht for Thai), Parking 20 baht (motorbike).

Huai Nam Dang

Huai Nam Dang is a huge expanse of national park with spectacular views, hot springs and waterfalls. You can also rent a cabin in the National Park, and camping is permissible, but only if you bring your own equipment. 8am - 5pm. 200 baht for adults (40 baht for Thai), 100 baht for children (20 baht for Thai) *I need to check update on prices, as National Park fees have increased.


*NOTE*
Checkpoints: On route you will come across a few checkpoints, usually with only one main one being manned. Slow down when approaching and make sure you remove sunglasses and have as much as your face shown as possible. Normally you will not need to stop and be waved through. 

Pai

When you arrive in Pai I suggest you head straight for the PTT garage and refuel. (Tourist Police on left hand side, PTT straight on for 300m until you see the PTT garage on the right hand side)

 ENJOY PAI! 

For Pai and beyond I recommend the GT.Rider Mae Hong Son Loop Map

..and there you go. Have fun.

*IMPORTANT RECOMMENDATION* Take water, wear a helmet, wear protective clothing, take a mobile phone, have a license, have insurance!

*MOTO TRIP* *DAY RIDE* **LAYMAN'S GUIDE!** The Samoeng Loop - A L00ooptAstiC guide ~!

LAYMAN'S GUIDE series.  No waffle. Non wax-lyrical. Straightforward. 

There are lots of places to see and visit on this loop, but for this guide I'm including just my personal favorites.*Note* Fill your tank up (there are village pumps along the way, but best to fill up beforehand. Best to take water too).

 THE SAMOENG LOOP

Whether on a scooter or a bigger bike, here is the Zed CM layman's guide to the infamous Samoeng Loop.

Clockwise or Counter-clockwise, the choice is yours. To keep this guide simple, this guide will be based on clockwise.

Clockwise Loop: From Chiang Mai city, head onto the 121 (see map above). Follow the road approximately for 10km until you hit the 1269 intersection (see photo above). Take a right turn. Follow this road and it will take you into the hills.

The Samoeng loop is really more about the ride and the natural scenery, than destinations. So soak up the atmosphere and enjoy what you see. Have a few tips for pit stops though so here are my top ones: 

Max Coffee and The Doi: For a stop-off and a snack, i recommend either Max Wine & Coffee On Hill or The Doi Resort. (Due to the close proximity of each other, its best to choose one or the other).

Max Coffee: For some great views of the valley, Max Coffee wins. A good one if you fancy a wine or a cold one too (and the better choice, imo, if you decide to do the loop counter-clockwise).

The Doi:
If you want to watch the traffic go by, and catch an opportunity to see elephants go past, The Doi is a pretty resort stop. (I'm personally not a fan of elephant riding/shows/etc (that's why i haven't mentioned Mae Sa Valley Elephant camp), but i do enjoy watching them.)



View Point / Samoeng Forest: 
About halfway through the loop you will come to a junction. Straight on takes you to Samoeng Village, to the left is the Samoeng Police box, and to the right is the road to the viewpoint and the continuation of the loop. Head to the right. The viewpoint is a classic photo-op, with the Samoeng Forest sign. (This is a viewpoint only, no shops etc here)

Queen Sirikit Botanical Gardens / Mae Sa Waterfall:
Both these places are only worth visiting if you have given yourself enough time to enjoy them. Probably best if you choose either one rather than both, but if you have a ton of energy then go for it! 

Queen Sirikit Botanical Gardens:
Stunning gardens on a HUGE compound. Lots to see for lovers of all things flora.
Open daily 8:30am – 5pm.
Entrance Fee is 100 Baht/50 Baht for children (40 Baht/10 Baht if Thai)

Mae Sa Waterfalls:
Pretty 8-tiered waterfall. You can buy food here from vendors.
Entrance Fee is 200 Baht/50 Baht for Children (20 Baht if Thai). Parking Fee is 20 Baht for motorcycle, 30 Baht for car.  

The X-Center
Throwing in this fun one. The X-Center has a variety of adventure activities on offer such as Bungee Jumping and Paint Ball etc. They also have a restaurant and coffee shop and bar. So, even if you have no time or energy on this day, you can still grab a cool drink or something to eat. A good one for a stop before heading back into Chiang Mai city.

The last leg
Carry along the 1096 until you hit the 107 intersection. Turn right and head back to the city. This last leg of the clockwise trip isn't so nice really. It's approximately 18km of main road and often heavy traffic. So just a plod homeward on a dusty busy road.

Lastly.. i recommend the GT.Rider Mae Sa Valley Map


..and there you go. Have fun.
Dont forget to wear a helmet ;)

*MOTO GEAR* - Buying a Motorcycle Helmet. Finding the Right Fit

I strongly advocate quality approved full-faced helmets that fit correctly. You will find out why further down..
Quality of helmets in Thailand vary, and many will wear helmets that are the safety equivalent of a plastic bucket on your head. Its a personal choice and years ago my personal choice was not to worry about helmets much.

I came to regret that.

Full-faced in particular felt suffocating. (Now they feel reassuring)

 First off, here is an excellent run down of buying a motorcycle helmet from MOTORESS: http://motoress.com/gearstyle/the-basics/buying-a-motorcycle-helmet/

Second, here is why i advocate the wearing of correctly fitting full-faced helmets:

This is a day i will never forget. A day i nearly lost my life...
...and my face.
I still have issues to this day.
Blog report on this day here

I wore an open face REAL brand helmet, which is popular in Thailand. I have a stupidly small size XS head, and the helmet was a size M. So not only was the helmet open faced, it was ill-fitting.

I apparently (for i do not remember) slid on gravel, bounced of my bike and slid along the road. My face was lacerated, my nose broken, my tongue split, my hand fractured and lots and lots of bashes and bruises. I lost consciousness and to this day i cannot remember anything, nor events leading up to it. (I retraced my trip 4 years later, and had a strange event occur. You can view this trip revisit here).So, i am now the proud owner of a couple of full faced quality brand helmets and the feeling whilst wearing them is no longer suffocating, it is reassuring.

I feel lucky to have a life..and a face to present to the world....
Take care :)

*TRIP REPORT* (non-moto) Ao Nang & Island Tour - 10 years in Thailand, never seen an Island!

Hey So, finally (after nearly 10 years living in Northern Thailand) i FINALLY visit the south!
Just a flying visit really.
Arrived at approximately 4:15pm (Wednesday 6th April) and departed at approx 7:15 two days later (Friday 8th April).

*NOTE* if you want to skip the Ao Nang impressions and go straight to the 7 islands Sunset Tour review, click here. 

DAY 1

Starting from Krabi Airport:
Krabi airport is small, but has a fair few visitors, so maybe I was just lucky that it was very quiet upon my arrival. (I flew budget with Air Asia)

Transport from Krabi to Ao Nang:
Two main options seem to be Shuttle Bus costing 150 baht (at time of posting). The shuttle bus will drop you at your hotel, but gets pretty packed so will likely be a while getting you there.
The other main option is private taxi costing 600 baht (at time of posting). Good value if you have a group as the taxi seats 10 or so people. Takes around 20 - 30 minutes.
(I had good Karma that day because i got a free taxi ride due to helping someone out. Always pays to be nice!) 

Hotels / Guesthouses / dorms / etc:As i was arriving late and didn't wish to have to search for accommodation, i pre-booked online via Agoda. I was rather bummed at missing out on an opportunity to stay at the Centara Anda Dhevi for a reduced cost (a manager friend in Chiang Mai knows the manager of Centara, but sadly they were fully booked on my dates), so i decided to go Cheap Charlie and seek a simple experience. I got one... I stayed at Jinda Guesthouse, which had good reviews on Trip Adviser.
The price for a fan room was 367 baht (but if you just turn up its only 300). Shared bathroom. I forgot to take photos but basically it was a hot room with no view and a dingy small shared bathroom. Im no "princess" but i dont think i'll do shared bathroom or dingy backpacker style again in a hurry, if i can help it. Jinda also does rooms with aircon, so i assume they were much nicer (and a fridge too, apparently). Well anyway, it was an experience. I also get the feeling the whole island isnt cheap, so i recon expect to pay in the region of 1200 range for basic and higher for something nice. You can get dorms and shared bathroom places for the 300 range, but no frills and possible bedbugs etc.... "Up to you", as they say. You can of course choose to stay on neighbouring islands instead.

Scooter rental:
Again, i did a bit of research beforehand and Wan rentals kept coming up as honest and fair. They charge 200 baht a day and have a range of scooters. They were also right on the doorstep of Jinda Guesthouse, making it very convenient. I decided to just go ahead and rent a bike for the whole three days, even though I likely wouldn't fit in much riding. I just didn't want the bother of taxi "mafia" etc.
No discount given for 3 days. (Im Scottish. We always check for these things! :p)
Found out where the nearest petrol station was (a few km up from the rental) and filled her up.

*SCOOTER RENTAL TIPS*:
Always take photos of your bike in front of a staff member (to minimize any possible issues later on).

Check brakes, lights and indicators and I suggest check your tire pressures. In general should be around 18 to 24 psi for the front tire and 28 to 36 psi for back.

Ao Nang at night: I was basically out at the tourist strip of Ao Nang. Initially i rode on the scooter up and down the area to get a basic feel for the place, then parked up across from the coastline in the main strip (Center Point). I walked around and checked out the shops (which basically all sell the same things pretty much). 

I noted that a great deal of shop and restaurant owners seemed not to be Thai. Seemed Middle Eastern? I'm not sure. At one restaurant, whilst checking out the menu outside, a waiter/greeter ask me what food i like to eat and i named a Thai dish. He didn't understand and so i asked him if he knows Thai language. He didn't. I get the feeling many around there maybe cant. Was strange to me. Anyway, I don't like pushy wait staff or shop owners (and most were frankly), so i settled on the first decent place that i was left to peruse the menu at. I ordered a prawn dish and although the prawns were plump and delicious, i wasn't impressed with the sauce. I think its because the dishes are for a more general palate and i am used to authentic spicy flavorful Thai food. Thai would call the dish จืด, which basically means bland. 
The Leo beer helped though. ;p 

After dinner i needed to walk off the beer before heading back, so headed for Center Point and Walking Street. In Chiang Mai (where i live) walking streets are huge, so I was surprised when i entered walking street only to walk a few meters and come out of it again! Its not quite what i imagined and a long walking peruse was seemingly off the cards that night. I walked around the area a few times including walking along the beach front (the sound of the waves was very nice). 

I also checked out a few tour agents but settled on calling one i had previously found online: Andaman Sea Travel. They offered a good price for a Hong Island + 7 island Sunset Tour (1200 baht including lunch and dinner - but not including island fees). Booked with them over the phone and they arranged a pickup for the morning at my hotel. Bought myself a big bottle of water and drove back to my room for an early night. 

I'm pretty sure Ao Nang stays open till the early hours because people are in party/holiday mode. Judging by the noise many of the guests made coming in at 2am and 3am, im pretty sure Ao Nang has a nightlife. Just didn't see for myself, so i cannot say for sure what it is like.  

DAY 2

Hong Island + 7 Island Sunset Tour:
To make things easier i made a separate trip report here
After i got back from the tour with a nasty case of sunburn (gahh stupid me!), i decided to just get myself some aloe vera and icecubes and get an early night. I was knackered from the long day and im not much of a bar person anyway. Spent the next couple of hours back in my room taking the heat out of the sunburn.

DAY 3

My plan of getting up early and doing either another tour or explore went out the window when i awoke to the reality of some badly sunburned skin. The wisest plan of action was to drench myself in aloe and cover up. I went back to sleep for a bit until i packed up and checked out at 10:30am. Jinda kindly allowed me to keep my bag stored in their locker for pickup later and so i hopped on the bike and went for a ride around. I was determined to get some of my moneys worth out of the bike rental. Ended up riding to Nopparat Thara Beach and a few other areas and getting through just over half a tank of petrol before deciding to head back. Oh backtrack, i also had a coffee in Ao Nang before riding. I have to say that i was really surprised by the lack of coffee shops in Ao Nang. Mainly because im used to living in coffee-shop-central Chiang Mai. Chiang Mai is coffee shop mad and the selection is enormous, from simple streetside coffee vendors (real coffee as well as drip and instant) to fancier venues and 24 hour businesses. So having to SEARCH for a coffee shop was a new one on me. I did find a nice looking one next to Starbucks but the coffee was rather bland for me. At 130 baht it made me balk too. Especially seeing as my regular coffee place in Chiang Mai, which serves really nice coffee, is only 35 baht! So, not quite my cup of tea. ...er, i mean coffee.

After the bike ride i headed for some food and went to Nang-An Seafood restaurant.
I enjoyed the ยำทะเล (seafood salad) but the staff in general were surly. Afterwards i took a stroll along the beach.
By then it was time to head back to return the bike and set off for the airport. Returned the bike with no issues and enquired about transport to the airport. Karma is kind again and after speaking with the owner in Thai she wavered my taxi fee. She told me no fee because i rented a bike that i returned early, that i speak Thai and that i am lovely and polite..(so again, it always pays to be nice!) Left with a smile on my face as i got picked up by an aircon taxi and sent on my way.

Krabi airport has no wifi. It pretends it does, but it doesnt, lol. You cant self check in either. But it does have coffee shops, so im happy. Went though the whole check-in, x-ray, waiting, boarding malarkey and was happy to be heading home. I do wish that i had more time, or rather that i hadnt got sunburn and made better use of my time, but i was still happy to be going home.

On the flight i got caught short and had to use the bathroom. I was in the window seat and had to disturb the couple next to me to get to out. You would have thought by their reaction (verbal as well as vibe) that i had asked them to donate me a kidney. I even apologised, but was met with disgusted looks. I will keep this blog polite, but some phrases are going through my head...
The irony is that after disembarking i saw them asking people about where to get a taxi etc and looking generally lost and confused. I could have helped them, but I didnt. I left and got on my bike that i had parked up in the airport carpark. I admit that i felt a little bad, but "สมน้ำหน้า!" they say in Thai. "Serves You Right!". See... it always pays to be NICE! (which they werent! ..but maybe i was also not nice for not helping..and now my good Karma will go....:( )

Overall impressions:
Seafood fresh but best when prepared simply.
LOTS of tourists
More costly than the north
Stunning Islands
Island Thai language sounds funny and sing-songy
Locals look an interesting Malay kind of mix-look
Coffee shops thin on the ground (this is obviously a big thing for me lol)
Sun protection def required!

*TRIP REPORT* (non moto) - 7 Islands Sunset Tour (snorkeling + Hong Island) - 10 years in Thailand, never seen an Island!

7 Islands Sunset Tour
(snorkeling + Hong Island)

(video of trip at bottom of blog post)

Tour Company: Andaman Sea Travel*

(*booked through Andaman Sea Travel, but actual company was Lucky Krabi Tour)

Price: 1200 baht (at time of blog post - NOT including National Park fees)



Intinery:
10:45am - Pickup (later than informed)
11:15am - Ao Nammao Pier (payment and a LONG wait to set off)
12:00pm - Head off to Hong Lagoon (snorkeling plus lunch)
(not sure of timings here as didnt keep an eye on clock. So no timings given till later)
--:--   pm - Lading Island (snorkeling and explore)
--:--   pm - Hong Island (explore and relax)
--:--   pm - Daeng Island (snorkeling)
16:00 pm - Tub Island (explore)
--:--   pm - Poda Island (cancelled due to lack of time)
16:45 pm - Chicken Island (snorkeling)
17:30 pm - Railay Island (BBQ dinner and Fire Show)
19:00 pm - Bio-Phosphorous Plankton (snorkeling)
20:00 pm - Back at Pier & transport home


Overall impressions:
If you need a quick introduction to the islands, this is great. However, there is really very little time to
explore or digest your surroundings. Its just good for an overall impression. If i had more time i would have booked additional single island trips, but i felt i made the best choice for an overall perspective. It was a good price and i felt good value for money. Not much tour talking/guiding and for some that may not be good, but i personally enjoyed being able to soak up what im seeing without commentary.

Food:
If you have any special dietary requirements inform when booking. The food was ok but more geared towards a general palate. I like spicy and enjoy authentic Thai food. I found the food given fairly tame and a little bland. But still good value considering the price of the tour.

Snorkeling:
As a first time snorkeler, this was fun for me. Those who have experienced more snorkeling may have a different perspective. I loved every minute as i usually hate to have my head underwater. Snorkeling took that issue away and gave me unadulterated joy of underwater exploring.

Fire Show:
Not really that showman-like to be honest, but i enjoyed it anyway. Mainly because a young kid was participating and also our tour guide. So, that was entertaining.

Islands:
Fantastic to see them, especially all the coral and limestone. Truly amazing. My top islands were Hong Island for the shear beauty of it and Tub Island for exploring around the exposed coral.

Conclusion:
No regrets. Best choice for my first island taster. Now just have to learn to Scuba..!

10th Year in Thailand. Never Visited an Island...!

This year will be my 10th year of living in Thailand. NORTHERN Thailand that is. Chiang Mai, to be precise. I have toured around the northern territory, but yet, i have NEVER, not once, been South to any of the Islands. Shocking really, isn't it. So finally, Im heading off tomorrow to Ao Nang, Krabi. No idea what to expect, but will lay out the low down here. Will update tomorrow. Now hopefully the stomach butterflies will calm down and I can get some sleep.... (nearly midnight).

*MOTO GEAR* GT.Rider Maps

Ok..so, you will notice on a few of my blog posts that I've mentioned GT.Rider maps.
These maps are a staple of most riders exploring the northern territory of Thailand and Laos regions.

David Unkovich aka Mr GT Rider, has been exploring Thailand for decades and his maps are well-respected guides. Teamed with GPS, these maps have got me back on track, and offer insightful and interesting routes. They also include recommended places to visit and to stay etc.

So, they are definitely something i advocate as part of your riding "gear".

You can buy the maps online or via these outlets.

GT.Rider also has a forum, where you can read about other riders trip reports and gain advice and help on border crossings etc.

Big fan! Can you tell? :p

*MOTO TRIP* *DAY RIDE*: Chiang Mai > Mae Sai > Phayao > Chiang Mai. 640+ km

Conclusion (yes, im starting with a conclusion): Sore bum.
lol.

As a foreigner in Thailand, if you wish to stay for any length of time, you will usually get acquainted with visa trips. These can be frequent, depending on your visa type. For this particular trip i headed to the Thailand/Burma border (more info on how to do a border visa trip here). I decided, unwisely maybe, to set off early. Like 6:30am early.
Now i know that i am of Scottish blood, but i have lived in Thailand long enough to have acclimatized. I have also always hated the cold and been able to cope with the heat. So, at 6:30am riding in cool season temperatures, i did not find it fun. In fact, i had to slow my pace right down because the wind and cold was going straight through me. Wearing three layers, a jumper, a jacket with a windproof jacket on top, just didn't cut it and body was shivering so violently that i thought my bike was having issues! Really!

Thankfully there is a great little spot for warming up just before you hit the city of Chiang Rai. The Hot Springs at Mae Khachan. I parked up and nipped into the coffee shop where they pump in hot spring water into troughs. Here you can soak your feet, whilst drinking your coffee. My hands in particular reveled in the heat, as they had gone quite numb.

After warming up (wasting a good hour or so doing so), i carried on up to Mae Sai, the border town into Burma. Report on that here.Visa sorted i grabbed a bite to eat and started off back to Chiang Mai.
Except i didn't.

Now i didn't actually intend to head to Phayao, my plan was a quick trip up to the border and back again. However, me being me (aka - stupid), i missed the Chiang Mai road turn off and found myself heading towards Phayao. I decided i may as well just go into Phayao and make it a day trip.

Phayao itself is a pretty town. Some find it a little boring, but i find it peaceful. I love the Naga serphants on the water.

Ive done a couple of day trips to Phayao here and here (to be fixed) and also a bit of a dancing video at the Naga, which caused a few smiles. (I intend to do something with this video down the line. One day...one day..)

 
After a quick view i headed back to Chiang Mai, arriving a couple of hours later. 

Turned out to be a happy accident and enjoyed the trip :)