It is our responsibility as
humans to care for nature and the countryside. DO NOT write slash and burn farming off as not your business even if Thailand is not your birth country.
Whether a Thai national or not, this horrific technique should not be
taken lightly or written off as tradition. Do not underestimate or take
lightly the damage this technique causes. It not only destroys nature, it
creates toxic fumes. Plastic and rubbish also gets burned at this time.
Make no excuses, this practice MUST end!
When hot season kicks in, residents in the north of Thailand prepare for the dreaded "slash and burn";a farming technique which is carried out throughout northern regions, including Burma/Myanmar and Laos. The season can begin as early as November and end as late as May, with the worst periods usually being late February and March.
The farming technique involves huge sections of forestry being set on fire, and is mainly about harvesting some particularly prized (and costly) mushrooms. These mushrooms, called hed thob, grow only during this season, and are sought after for their earthy flavour. The mushrooms are harvested and sold at extremely high prices, making them a lucrative crop for farmers. ..and thus, for this reason it is very hard to change a practice which brings in so much cash. Ultimately money is king. Plus, burning also makes it easier to hunt wildlife for food, when their natural habitat is destroyed.
It's hard to believe given that every year the same thing happens, that there are laws in place which make the practice of burning illegal. However, it is either non enforceable or no one wishes to enforce. The rural farmers that carry out the practice stand to make most of their annual living from this crop, so it is far too important a technique for them to give up readily. What is the solution? I have no idea sadly, but given that the northern regions all suffer from terrible clawing smog and dangerous PM and AQI levels, something needs to change. (You can view levels via this official site:http://aqicn.org/city/chiang-mai/).
Thankfully there has has been rising recognition about the damage the burning is doing, not only to the flora and fauna, but to people's health. Campaign's have been taking place to promote awareness and show upset over the lack of enforcement, such as the "Bye Bye Smog" rally. Hopefully there is a sea of change taking place over this, even if the tide is still far out..
For ten years now I have been witnessing the devastation that burning season causes. Each
year I tell myself that the next year I will not remain in Chiang Mai
or the north, but for some reason I end up staying and waiting it out. Many residents who can escape the region at this time, do. The weather at this time is often around 40c / 104f region, so teamed with the poor AQI the quality of life in the northern regions become poor.
This year (2016) has been a particularly lengthy burning season.
It is already May and yet a devastating vision met us all in Chiang Mai when we saw our beautiful mountain ablaze.
This short video was from today and this evening:
It is truly frightening and depressing to see.
*UPDATE* See end of post for an update on the devastation this fire caused..
Over the years I have seen a lot of burning. Here are some images I have captured from previous years:
Another burning video I recorded in 2013, shot in Pai, Thailand.
*UPDATE*
These are some of the images we are faced with in the aftermath of the fire last night...
Take a moment to look at the images and really digest what these poor creatures, and many more like them, suffered last night. This is the same suffering that animals all over the northern region endure each year from these fires. Frightened out of their minds and burnt alive. Their charred remains a sad image of the damage these selfish practices cause.
I confess I had to reign in some deep feelings of anger and upset upon seeing these images. Something about seeing the charred remains of innocent creatures brings home the horrific devastation these farming practices cause. On my personal Facebook account I expressed some strong words regarding the inhumane selfish individuals who carry out these fires, but for the sake of diplomacy i will refrain from repeating them on here. My only hope is that the death of these poor victims will cause enough outrage to finally make some difference in enforcing the laws regarding preventing the burning practices. In truth I do not hold my breath on anything changing though. This compounds the sorrow I have in my heart because not only do we have the death of nature on our hands, we have the knowledge that their death is likely all in vain, for the practice will continue.
..at this current time I am not aware of any groups aiming to combat the burning, except for the Bye Bye Smog group (click here for Facebook page for Bye Bye Smog group). If I hear of any campaigns or other groups involved I will post an update. For now, you can show your support by clicking LIKE on the Bye Bye Smog Facebook group.
(I have since found out the photos of the carcases are from a previous fire, however the impact will have been the same)
A friend recently nominated me to post a photo(s) that makes me feel proud to be a Biker. So be aware that this blog post is a rather indulgent one. Read on only if you can forgive me for being so self-focused..!
Turned out to be not as easy a decision as I thought it would be.
How can one sum up that feeling succinctly in photo form...?
I mulled it over for a while to work out what photo(s) would best illustrate that feeling for me....
So, initially I thought maybe the adventures I have enjoyed on a bike could sum it up..because that's a huge part of what I love about riding.
..but no, not quite right....
..then I thought, maybe it could be the fantastic events I have been lucky to attend...
..but no again.
<--Err, sorry ..that's a little random. Its just that all this "no again" stuff suddenly had me thinking of the Hong Kong Phooey cartoon I watched as a kid. If you have no idea what I'm talking about then you are either too young or too old or not from a country where this was shown, and I am not going to help you out by giving my age away :p
..ok, back to "the - plot - thickens" style deduction...
So I thought maybe its the great motorcycling friends I have made over time, who have been great fun to hang out with and who have been helpful to me.
but nope..as much as I love my friends, that isn't quite cutting the mustard for me either.
Then i figured what about that time i felt like Ms Hot-Chick-On-A-Bike? haha...
..but although I had a lot of fun that day, the personal sum of my motorcycling worth isn't measured on whether I look hot or not on a bike.
Lastly I was thinking maybe its the progression from automatic scooter to manual bike.. which has been pretty much self taught aside from initial guidance...and that was a close definite for me.
But nope nope nope.. .....and then it hit me like a lightning bolt. I also had the perfect photo to illustrate it...
What makes me feel proud to be a biker is the resilience to keep going, to get back up on the saddle even after falling. The unbelievable urge and desire to be on that bike NO MATTER WHAT. The fact that most bikers I know, myself included, have had accidents or bike related injuries, yet where possible they dust themselves off and get right back on. In fact, most will still be dreaming about getting back on their bikes even when trussed up in a hospital bed with pins coming out of limbs. This resilience makes me proud to be a biker.
The photos I have chosen to sum this up, is the photos illustrating my accident and then the photo of finally having the nerve to retrace that accident..and complete it.
I had ridden many routes over the four years since my accident, but just couldnt bring myself to retrace the actual accident route. So..that day was an achievement for me, and a day when i finally put the past to bed.
Of course, I do hope to never have another accident again, at least not anything severe. ..and I wish the same for my fellow riders.
LAYMAN'S GUIDE series. No waffle. Non wax-lyrical. Straightforward.
THE 1095 ROUTE TO
PAI
Whether on a scooter or a bigger bike, here is the Zed CM layman's guide to the 1095 route to Pai
ROUTE: From Chiang Mai city, head for route 107 (see map above - also note my tip about taking route 121 initially). This road is a busy dusty road, get through it best you can, nothing really to enjoy here. When you hit the junction with the 1095 left turn towards Pai, i recommend that you DO NOT turn left. Instead, head straight on for approximately 700 meters to the Shell Garage and fill up.
(There are small village petrol pumps dotted along the way but if you fill up at this garage, you shouldn't need to fill up along the way. Scooters included). If you have a bigger bike with a higher tank capacity, you won't need to worry about filling up here..but its a good fuel stop in any case). Once filled, make a U-Turn and head on to the 1095 and into the hills towards Pai.
The 1095 is a twisty fun road, but ride within your capabilities. For fast riders this road will only take a couple of hours..but can take as much as five for inexperienced riders. Add to that possible stops too. So keep in mind it could be a potentially long ride if you are on a small bike and are inexperienced.
My personal top stop-off points:
32 Coffee Hill: This is my staple stop off point, which is around half way to Pai. A good place for a drink, plus they have nice toilet facilities if you need to freshen up. 32 Coffee Hill is also within a restaurant and resort complex, so if you find yourself hungry or very tired, it is worth knowing these facilities are available too. When on route to Pai or just enjoying the road, this is usually my only stop off point. But if you have time, the next two destinations are worth visiting...
Mork Fa Waterfall. (The waterfall is BEFORE 32 Coffee Hill, so keep that in mind). I love this waterfall, but tends to get busy. It also has an interesting twisty road area to explore, if that's your thing. The waterfall itself is 60 meters high, very pretty and a great place to cool down. National park fees apply. 8am - 6pm.Entry fee: 100 baht adult (20 baht for Thai), Parking 20 baht (motorbike).
Huai Nam Dang is a huge expanse of national park with spectacular views, hot springs and waterfalls. You can also rent a cabin in the National Park, and camping is permissible, but only if you bring your own equipment. 8am - 5pm. 200 baht for adults (40 baht for Thai), 100 baht for children (20 baht for Thai) *I need to check update on prices, as National Park fees have increased.
*NOTE* Checkpoints: On route you will come across a few checkpoints, usually with only one main one being manned. Slow down when approaching and make sure you remove sunglasses and have as much as your face shown as possible. Normally you will not need to stop and be waved through.
Pai
When you arrive in Pai I suggest you head straight for the PTT garage and refuel. (Tourist Police on left hand side, PTT straight on for 300m until you see the PTT garage on the right hand side)
LAYMAN'S GUIDE series. No waffle. Non wax-lyrical. Straightforward.
There are lots of places to see and visit on this loop, but for this guideI'm
including just my personal favorites.*Note* Fill your tank up (there
are village pumps along the way, but best to fill up beforehand. Best to
take water too).
THE SAMOENG LOOP
Whether on a scooter or a bigger bike, here is the Zed CM layman's guide to the infamous Samoeng Loop.
Clockwise or Counter-clockwise, the choice is yours. To keep this guide simple, this guide will be based on clockwise.
Clockwise Loop: From Chiang Mai city, head onto the 121 (see map above). Follow the road approximately for 10km until you hit the 1269 intersection (see photo above). Take a right turn. Follow this road and it will take you into the hills.
The Samoeng loop is really more about the ride and the natural scenery, than destinations. So soak up the atmosphere and enjoy what you see. Have a few tips for pit stops though so here are my top ones:
Max Coffee and The Doi: For a stop-off and a snack, i recommend either Max Wine & Coffee On Hill or The Doi Resort. (Due to the close proximity of each other, its best to choose one or the other).
Max Coffee: For some great views of the valley, Max Coffee wins. A good one if you fancy a wine or a cold one too (and the better choice, imo, if you decide to do the loop counter-clockwise).
The Doi:
If you want to watch the traffic go by, and catch an opportunity to see elephants go past, The Doi is a pretty resort stop. (I'm personally not a fan of elephant riding/shows/etc (that's why i haven't mentioned Mae Sa Valley Elephant camp), but i do enjoy watching them.)
View Point / Samoeng Forest:
About halfway through the loop you will come to a junction. Straight on takes you to Samoeng Village, to the left is the Samoeng Police box, and to the right is the road to the viewpoint and the continuation of the loop. Head to the right. The viewpoint is a classic photo-op, with the Samoeng Forest sign. (This is a viewpoint only, no shops etc here)
Queen Sirikit Botanical Gardens / Mae Sa Waterfall: Both
these places are only worth visiting if you have given yourself enough
time to enjoy them. Probably best if you choose either one rather than
both, but if you have a ton of energy then go for it!
Queen Sirikit Botanical Gardens:
Stunning gardens on a HUGE compound. Lots to see for lovers of all things flora. Open daily 8:30am – 5pm. Entrance Fee is 100 Baht/50 Baht for children (40 Baht/10 Baht if Thai)
Mae Sa Waterfalls:
Pretty 8-tiered waterfall. You can buy food here from vendors. Entrance Fee is 200 Baht/50 Baht for Children (20 Baht if Thai). Parking Fee is 20 Baht for motorcycle, 30 Baht for car.
The X-Center
Throwing in this fun one. The X-Center has a variety of adventure activities on offer such as Bungee Jumping and Paint Ball etc. They also have a restaurant and coffee shop and bar. So, even if you have no time or energy on this day, you can still grab a cool drink or something to eat. A good one for a stop before heading back into Chiang Mai city.
The last leg
Carry along the 1096 until you hit the 107 intersection. Turn right and head back to the city. This last leg of the clockwise trip isn't so nice really. It's approximately 18km of main road and often heavy traffic. So just a plod homeward on a dusty busy road.
which make the practice of burning illegal. However, it is either non enforceable or no one wishes to enforce. The rural farmers that carry out the practice stand to make most of their annual living from this crop, so it is far too important a technique for them to give up readily. What is the solution? I have no idea sadly, but given that the northern regions all suffer from terrible clawing smog and dangerous PM and AQI levels, something needs to change. (You can view levels via this official site:http://aqicn.org/city/chiang-mai/). 
Over the years I have seen a lot of burning. Here are some images I have captured from previous years:
*UPDATE*
